Wednesday, 7 September 2011

Life in Vietnam

There’s a song which begins, ‘There are ten million bicycles in Beijing …’. Well, there must be at least that many mopeds and motorbikes in Hanoi and I’ve seen most of them already. They are everywhere. And the riders all use their horn too. Hanoi is a very noisy place.


Let me tell you a tale of two cities – Hanoi & Torun… You couldn’t really choose two places with more differences but if I were to ask you what the biggest difference between Poland and Vietnam is I reckon you’d struggle.

‘The weather’ could be one I suppose. However, believe it or not, Poland was hotter last summer than it is here at the moment.

‘The food’ is another possible answer. Well, I have seen some snails and what looked like fried sparrows on the streets but most of the food is recognisable and revolves around rice or noodles. Soup is popular (as it is in Poland), but when I tried to order a bowl of the staple, Pho soup, I was surprised to be told that it’s only served for breakfast. Do you pour it over your cornflakes? Apparently not.

Hungry ... ?


No, the main difference is … crossing the road. You couldn’t ask for more of a contrast. In Poland, jaywalking is illegal and I heard stories of people being fined on the spot. This led to a group of us standing at a crossing in the early hours waiting for the little man to turn green with not a car in sight. I soon wised up and learned to look for police cars if I couldn’t stand waiting any longer. In Vietnam there are no such laws – crossing the road requires jaywalking expertise if you want to get anywhere. My first attempts were on the evening of my first day here and I was somewhat daunted to say the least. Stepping out into the path of oncoming traffic goes against all that Tufty and The Green Cross Code Man ever taught me. By Day 2 I was rather pleased with my progress – pick your moment and start walking, but look both ways at all times as there are no guarantees that traffic will come from the ‘obvious’ direction. Walk slowly and stop if necessary – they will go around you. It works! I think it pays to wait until there are no buses or too many cars though. If this blog stops unexpectedly you’ll know I messed up my jaywalking technique.

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My summer went by in a bit of a blur. I reluctantly left Torun at the end of June and had a week to see family & sort out a few things for my move before heading north to work on a summer school near Newcastle. These language summer schools take place during the summer all over the UK. Teenagers from all over the world come to improve their English. The schools lay on a programme of lessons and activities. I chose well – I was working for International House, Newcastle and we were based at Kirkley Hall – about ten miles from the city centre – and our trips included paintballing, go-karting, visits to the major cities nearby and boat trips. It was tough, but I coped. We had a mix of perhaps as many as ten different nationalities from Europe and as far afield as Mexico, China, Korea and Saudi Arabia and they were a cracking bunch of teenagers.

After that I only had a few more days before I flew here so it was more organising and seeing family & friends. On the 18th I caught my plane to Singapore and then to Hanoi.

So, I’m here for the next two years, working for the British Council and will call Hanoi home.

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It feels as though a million things have happened since I got here and so I think I’ll have to spread the news out over a few blogs.

I stayed in a hotel for a few weeks until I got a home sorted. The hotel also happens to be where the school is located so I had a difficult 2-floors-in-a-lift commute each day. The reception staff found out that I was trying to learn Vietnamese and wouldn’t give me my key unless I gave the number in Vietnamese! I also learned how to say things such as ‘good morning’ and that tended to raise a smile with them.









I shared my room with a gecko or two.


Having pointed out that Poland was hotter than Hanoi last summer I must still comment on the fact that it’s incredibly humid here and so I virtually melt wherever I go. I’ve walked around town a fair bit and used to buy water wherever I went. I’ve realised that that’s the expensive way since then though and now take it with me.

In fact, I have a ‘drinking index’, which I can use to work out how much I need to drink for any given activity. It looks like this:

Walking slowly for half an hour – half a litre
Walking quickly for half an hour – a litre
Half day trips – two litres
Playing tennis outside – half a swimming pool

I’m told that winter is approaching and that it actually gets cold here. I’ll believe that when it happens.

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I used to think that Polish was a tricky language but it could just be that Vietnamese is harder. The jury’s out at the mo – I don’t know enough yet. However, most people says it’s in the pronunciation and I can see what they mean – Vietnamese is tonal, like the Chinese languages and so you can say the same word in different ways and they mean completely different things. I’ve learned my numbers so I can at least haggle – an important skill in Asia I believe.

I’ve decided that I WILL learn Vietnamese though and, for that reason, I joined a club that meets on Saturday afternoons. It’s run by University students, who get to practise their English on us so it benefits them too. The club is called ‘Better Life Vietnam’ as it’s also a charity which aims to help the poor around Hanoi e.g. by providing books in rural schools.















No sooner had I attended my first lesson than a trip was announced – the next weekend we headed off to the suburbs for a day, bought our food in a market and prepared a meal together. It was really good day out. I can now make spring rolls like a local…





Buying some food at the market (with a little help from a friend) and then preparing it.


Bikes get everywhere …














My teaching has started and I have taught each class a few times now. I have a good mix of children, teenagers and adults, which is just what I wanted. The British Council has its fingers in many pies and so there may be opportunities to get involved in other work in the future too.


OK, that’s it for now. I’ll add some detail to the above in future blogs. Keep in touch – I’d love to hear from you!

Tuesday, 14 June 2011

Leaving Poland

I know, I know – you wait for ages for a blog and then two come along one after another.


Well, I wanted to round up my time in Poland by telling you about the things that I’d missed in previous blogs:


Football has continued for the past few months. It’s a lot of fun and we’ve had a really good crowd playing each week. However, we’ve managed to injure just about every player at some point – pulled muscles, aching backs, damaged knees and even stitches. I managed to damage myself by lifting both feet off the ground at the same time and landing heavily on my back. I missed the next two games due to a touch of whiplash. I’m convinced climbing is safer.


Despite all of the above though and, having always been the kid with two left feet I never thought I’d say it, but I think I’m going to miss playing football.


This was the emotional photo of the gang after the last game (violins playing in the background etc etc.)

















I also had my last climbing session at the wall this week (more violins). I was joined by my climbing buddies Jon and Łucasz (who is demonstrating a rather dodgy rope technique).






















I’ve been practising Polish with Mirek most weeks. He wants to learn English and is at a similar stage to me so we talk on Skype once a week or meet in the café. Mirek says something in Polish and I scratch my head and ask him to repeat it. He then says the same thing in broken English and I get the gist. I then say something in English and he asks me to repeat it so I say the same thing in broken Polish and he gets the gist. And so it goes on …


It might not sound like it, but it has been useful practice. Practice is definitely the key to learning a language and so I’ll look for a similar ‘talking partner’ as soon as I can in my next job.


I was invited out for a drink at my favourite cafe with some of his friends ...
















A few weeks ago I went to Malbork castle. It’s a medieval castle, built by the Teutonic Knights, who ruled the roost round here for a long time. It’s been rebuilt where necessary and is now on the UNESCO World Heritage list. It’s a jolly good day out and my only regret is missing out on getting a photo of myself dressed as a knight.





Talking of UNESCO World Heritage sites, Torun’s old town is one too. Everywhere you look there is something to admire and it makes Torun a lovely place to live. It’s peaceful most of the time but the main square is really busy at the moment and just popping into town makes you feel like you’re on holiday.


Torun is full of statues ...


There's the dragon ...



The people on the walls ...


The two chaps looking at Cinema City (a bit like a Polish Laurel & Hardy I believe) ...



The dog ...



The ‘Pied Piper/Fiddler’ (who got frogs to follow him) ...



And don’t forget the donkey ...



There is also John Paul II. I am probably correct in saying that there is a statue of the Polish Pope in every city, town and many villages.





















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I got talked into going to the Torun music school for their school fete the other day. My colleague and I taught the crowd ‘Yellow Submarine’ using pictures as an aide-memoire and then singing it together. It went well but I won’t be entering X Factor just yet. There are videos of me leading the singing but if you want to see them, it’ll cost you.

















We went from that to the staff BBQ at Romek’s (the boss) forest hideaway. There was a lot of meat. In fact, a lot of everything and fun and games on the zipwire and trampoline.






Last Saturday I went to Hel and back (that's the well-worn joke in these parts). Hel is a small village on the end of a very long, thin peninsula sticking out into the Baltic Sea north of Gdansk. It's about 30 miles long but only half a mile wide (if that).




It's a very popular spot with windsurfers and kite surfers. I'd never seen so many in the same place at the same time. No idea how they avoided each other. I managed to dip my toes in the Baltic but it was freezing so I undipped them fairly quickly.

Gdansk is nearby so we dropped in to have a quick look at the famous shipyards...
















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TEFL definitely seems to suit me. There aren’t too many jobs which allow you to pretend to be a chicken and get away with it. I’ve done a few ‘impressions’ with my beginners’ classes here and they seem to appreciate them (and even get the point!).


This is my ‘classroom’ at a Sanatorium in Ciechocinek – it’s the bar and yes, that is a wild boar on the wall.



My students here have been great fun and really hard-working. We had a group photo taken ...
















and they presented me with a few gifts. This one was the most unusual that I have ever been given (thank you to all my Ciechocinek students!) ...




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There aren’t many things about Poland that I don’t like. I can only think of three:


Flaki (tripe). Well, I can’t really say I don’t like this as I’ve made a point of avoiding it. It’s gone out of fashion back home but it’s going strong here - you can buy Flaki in every supermarket and most cafes.


Screeching tyres – for some drivers it seems to be a matter of some pride to screech tyres at every opportunity – at corners, when pulling away and when stopping. I have heard some awful screeches and waited to hear the crash but it never comes – they were just refining their screeching technique. At times like these I’ve a good mind to jump out and give them a copy of The Highway Code, but I don’t suppose it’ll make any difference.


You can’t buy salt ‘n’ vinegar crisps. In fact, most of my Polish friends ask me why anyone would choose to eat such things. I have a theory though, that they could catch on. So, if you fancy making a bob or two and can buy in bulk ...


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Well, that’s about it. I can’t believe it, but I’m flying from Bydgoszcz today after almost two excellent years and will really miss Poland and all the wonderful folk I’ve met (who MUST keep in touch – you know who you are!).


My next job is in Hanoi, Vietnam. I’ve got a job with the British Council there, starting late August. It’s about 30 degrees hotter than I like it but I’ve decided it’s time I toughened up. Having mastered Polish (!!!) I am now ready for the challenge of learning Vietnamese. It uses similar characters to English, but sounds like Chinese. I’m going to have some fun, I just know it.


Some of you may remember that my original plan was to go to work in China. Well, that hasn’t happened yet, but Hanoi is in the north so I will definitely get to visit China and can then decide whether to apply for a job there one day. I’ll also be near to Laos, Cambodia and Thailand so I might have to go exploring.


Before I get there though, I’ve got a week at home and then go to Newcastle to teach English for a month on a summer school. I’ll have about ten days spare after that and then head off for two years (although I hope to get home in between).


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Take care,


Gra