Saturday 5 February 2011

A short trip to Ukraine

OK, here's a challenge for you - state five facts about Ukraine ...
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OK, time's up.
If you're anything like me your line of thinking went something like this:

Hmmm, now let me see ...
1. It used to be part of the USSR. Correct; 1 point
2. Its capital is Kiev, which is also the name of a rather tasty chicken dish. Also correct, but you don't get a point for naming Chicken Kiev.
3. There was a nuclear power disaster in Chernobyl about 20 years ago. You're doing well - it was in 1986. 3 points so far.
4. The currency is errrr .... OK, the President, no, the Prime Minister (actually, they have both) is called Shevchanko, Yushchoerko? Oh, I don't know.
5. There's a Premiership footballer, I'm sure of it. Maybe he's called Shevchanko?
OK, I give up.
Score: 3 out of 5. Could do better.

Reasoning that I live relatively close to Ukraine, and I wouldn't get a better chance, I decided to pop in for a few days.

Lviv is the first place across the border that I'd heard of so I went there. It's logo had been carved in ice and was displayed in the square. It was cold enough for an ice sculpture to remain solid but I was spared the -15C of last winter thankfully.













Let me provide you with some information:
  • Ukraine is the second-largest country in Europe, after the European part of Russia.
  • The currency is the Hryvnia. There are currently about 12.5 to the pound.
  • The current President is Viktor Yanukovych and the Prime Minister is Mikola Azarov. Ukranian politics is full of drama - the Orange Revolution in 2004/2005 was a massive but peaceful series of demonstrations in protest at alleged vote-rigging in the Presential elections. The eventual winner, Viktor Yushchenko, was poisoned in an alleged assassination attempt and suffered serious disfigurement.He's on the mend apparently.
  • Another famous event in Ukranian history is the Crimean War in which Florence Nightingale set up her field hospital and the Light Brigade made its charge. I had planned to go to the Crimean peninsula but it's a long way and time was pressing.
  • The footballer Andriy Shevchenko, who previously played for Chelsea, is probably Ukraine's most well-known player. Sergey Bubka, the pole vaulter, is often named as the world's greatest athlete and has held the pole-vault world record for ages.
*****

Crossing the border was slow but we were at least spared the hassle of having to get off the bus in the middle of the night - a border guard got on the bus and collected all the passports and returned them all about half an hour later. We drove about 100 yards and a customs official (wearing a very impressive Soviet-style military hat) got on the bus and went through the whole process again. She asked me a question when she took my passport. I had no idea what she had asked so I guessed it was 'Where are you going?' and replied 'Lviv'. She was happy with that. Seemed obvious, as that was where the bus was going ...

Lviv is a lovely place and there's plenty to see.

















I came across a few interesting sights. There was a rally going on in the centre as I was passing. I never did find out what was going on though.

I also spotted these two littluns in national dress, being followed by a crowd of cheering teenagers. They were being filmed so I took a picture and kept out of the way.



I stayed in the 'Old Soviet Home' hostel. It had some character, with posters from the cold war on the wall and lots of memorabilia.


Lviv city centre is full of the same shops that you would find anywhere else (McDs, Adidas etc) but in one small grocers I was amazed to see the woman total up my bill using an abacus. You don't see that too often these days.

I was advised to visit Kryjivka for a meal. It's a themed restaurant dedicated to the memory of the Ukranian Insurgent Army who fought against the Nazis, Poles and Soviets from 1943 - 1949.


You're greeted at the door by a uniformed guard (who looked an awful lot like Fidel Castro if you ask me) who says 'Slava Ukraini' (Glory to Ukraine) and you are supposed to respond 'Geroyam Slava' (Glory to its heroes). He then lets you in and pours you a shot of vodka which you are expected to down in one (I did).

The local buses (marshrutka) were an experience. You pay a flat rate of 2 hryvnia to go anywhere. They get very crowded, so if you get on at the back the money is simply passed forward by the passengers. I can't see that working in Britain somehow. You might get a ticket, but not always. Saves a fortune on inspectors: Have you paid? Yes. Have you paid? Yes...














I finished my trip with a visit to the Opera house for a performance of La Traviata (in Italian with Ukranian subtitles!). OK, so I didn't understand everything that was going on, but I bought a programme so I got the gist. The singing was beautiful.
















Now I'm back 'home' in Torun I can turn my thoughts to normal life again. I have another week off but will be focusing on an online TEFL course, organised by International House, that will keep me busy for the next six months. The course participants are spread over four continents, so I don't think we'll be meeting for coffee in a hurry.

We've started 5-a-side football at work and, surprisingly, I find I rather enjoy it and even look forward to the next game. I never thought that would happen. That said, I can't wait to get out paddling (kayaking) again and have some ideas for walks in the area too. Skiing locally has had it as it's warmed up a lot.

My next trip will be to Lithuania & Latvia at Easter but I'm sure I'll manage another blog before then.

All the best to y'all!

4 comments:

  1. Good to hear your news. Thanks for James contribution he is thrilled! Love Sue and Brian Foxton

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  2. Great to hear your news mate.

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  3. Isn't Ukraine where the cossacks come from? Did you do the Cossack dancing!
    Great to hear your news. there's good kayaking here!

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  4. My five facts (from information gained in Poland):

    The Ukraine is co-hosting the world's most important sporting event ever - its something to do with football and sometime in the next few years, but that isn't really important. They might make a mess of it, so Poland may take it over completely.

    Lvov is the most Polish of cities according to the Polish faction that believes that part of the Ukraine should still be Polish. It is a sort of pilgrimage site for Polish past glory, with a widespread aim by Polish people to visit it at least once. (Me, too.)

    The beautifully portrayed primitive, vicious members of the Cossack Shetch (however, its spelt) in the film Ogniem i Mieczem (By Fire and Sword) were Ukrainian (although the actors may have been Polish). Some Ukrainians got upset by this portrayal, but Poles were equally upset by the film showing them to be self-interested parasites. As Polish revenge, this only potential post-communist winner of Best Foreign language film Oscar was not even nominated by the Polish side.

    Ukrainians and Poles are brothers, but, like many brothers, they seem to hate each other much of the time. A hero of Ukrainian nationalism is considered a mass murderer by many Poles, with his imprisonment by the Germans at the time of the killings, being only a technical detail. At least one of the 'Katyn' sites is in the Ukraine, where the killings were done by Ukrainians and Ukrainians were also victims.

    They had an Orange revolution, which looked very pretty.

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